In his latest work, “Lazzatnama,” renowned food critic Pushpesh Pant challenges myths around Indian cuisine

In his latest work, “Lazzatnama,” renowned food critic and historian Pushpesh Pant challenges popular myths surrounding Indian cuisine

Shedding light on its rich and diverse history. He begins by debunking the notion of a traditional Moradabadi biryani, emphasizing that such regional variations often emerge as marketing ploys rather than authentic culinary traditions. Pant contends that Yakhni Pulao, where rice is cooked in meat stock, represents a more genuine culinary heritage than the ostentatious biryani, which he criticizes for overemphasizing presentation and marketing. Regarding Mughlai cuisine, Pant asserts that the term itself is a misnomer, suggesting it was a post-Mughal construct that gained popularity during the British colonial period. He argues that what is commonly perceived as Mughlai cuisine today was popularized and adapted post-Mughal era, with dishes like Lazeeza khichdi being the few exceptions directly attributed to Mughal emperors. Throughout the discussion, Pant showcases his deep knowledge and passion for Indian food, covering various dishes from Kashmir to Kanyakumari.

He highlights vegetarian and non-vegetarian delicacies, exploring cooking techniques, regional influences, and the cultural significance of multiple dishes. From stuffed vegetable preparations to vegetarian versions of traditionally meaty dishes like Kashmiri kadu ka Rogan Josh, Pant’s exploration of Indian cuisine is comprehensive and experiential. “Lazzatnama,” as Pant explains, is not just a recipe book but a chronicle of flavors and stories behind the food. The title, derived from ‘nama’ (chronicle) and ‘lazzat’ (flavor), encapsulates his approach to showcasing the delicious morsels of Indian culinary heritage. It intertwines recipes with geographical indicators and anecdotes, debunking myths while celebrating the diverse flavors that define Indian cuisine. In essence, Pushpesh Pant’s “Lazzatnama” is a tribute to the richness and complexity of Indian food, inviting readers to savor the tastes and the stories that make each dish a cultural and gastronomic delight.